Wednesday, June 25, 2008
My Precious Trowel Recovered
While I was in Jordan, my IPOD broke (all the sand I think toasted it....which is ok, because I wanted to get an IPOD ITouch anyways!). So I put it in my bag to bring home so I could crack it open and see what the insides of an IPOD look like. Well - upon receiving my bag last night....lo and behold....no IPOD.....so the joke is on whoever stole it out of my bag. Gotcha!
Most importantly, however....is the fact that I got my trowel back. I have had that trowel ever since my first excavation in 1988 and aside from all of the other material in my luggage...it was the only thing I was really upset about potentially losing (kinda trivial I know...but all of you archaeologists out there know what I am talking about).
Monday, June 23, 2008
Back Home
Having said all that - I need to get something off my chest. My trip home went flawlessly until Air Canada/Royal Jordanian Airlines lost my luggage. This is the first time I have ever "lost" my bags and I can say that I am very disappointed. This is just the beginning of the saga...so I am sure to have more to say. Bottom line - the person who checked me in at the airport in Amman, decided to only check my bags to Heathrow airport. I advised the person at the Air Canada desk and despite their claims that they would locate my luggage and so on - it seems that I just kept getting "passed along" to the next person - finally arriving in Toronto to find out that the people I spoke to in London basically lied to me. UGH......the bag had all my gifts for my family, my hiking shoes, and so on. But most importantly....it had my TROWEL! The same trowel that I have used on every archaeological project since 1989. Its irreplacable. I am devestated! Anyways, I guess there are worse things that happen....but I am still very much disappointed.
I checked with Air Canada today and so far, no luck. If I don't have my bag by the end of the week...chances are....I never will. Damn! More to come later.
Monday, June 9, 2008
Wind, Wind and More Wind
The one thing that I do have to say is that we have been experiencing some rather strong winds...and when I say strong....I mean - its very difficult to sift our dirt as the wind blows the lithics out of our hands...which in a way is great...if they could land in the bag...but alas, it just doesn't happen that way.
Our cook (Ismail) made pizza last night for dinner which was met with great applause and adulation since we are pretty much tired of tomatoes and cucumbers....so this was a much needed change. On the weekend I made everyone my world famous Jerk Chicken...and it seemed to go over well. That was followed up with my now world famous Bananna Fritters....everyone is looking forward to a repeat performance.
Ok, I have to hand the laptop back to Lisa....she has some real work to do....whatever THAT is!!!
Friday, June 6, 2008
Return To Madaba
Things have been going well on the project. Everyday we get up at 4AM, have a quick breakfast (instant oatmeal for me - see my prevous post on the subject), then head out to site. Its about a 35 minute drive from Azraq to Kharaneh. As a driver of one of the vehicles I am not able to sleep on the way like everyone else - but at least my 4x4 is airconditioned. The other day the temperature was reading 43 degrees at one point. It has been very hot - but that's to be expected. Once we get to site its time to set up our sifts (screens that we pass all our dirt through to find the small artifacts). In the picture I am holding a bit of bone that has some lines etched on to it. There is some debate as to what the nature of these lines are, but they seem to be counting notches in groups of 3 or 4. This bone fragment is over 15,000 years old - so while it may not be a golden cup or other such glamourous object - the fact that somebody was using this that long ago to count something is interesting in its own right.
One of my first tasks this summer was to lay out the excavation grid. This is a picture of Dr. Lisa Maher (the project leader and close friend) putting in the site benchmark. 50 years from now this image will be part of the historical record. The site we are excavating is extremely uniqe for the Epipaleolithic - there is only one or two others in the world that provide the same kind of "window into the past" of this time period. I promised Lisa that this image would be on the back cover of her festschrift when she is famous!
We are excvating in 1x1 meter squares - which for me is unusual, but what the heck. The site has been divided into two areas where we are excavating. Digging is slow going since every trowel swipe turns up a tons of "stone and bone" that we have to sort through and process. Fortunately, the stratigraphy is pretty straight forward. Just yesterady, however, I have come down on what seems to be a pit or a burn scar - immediately complicating things and requiring additional documentation. If anything interesting turns up - I'll let you know.
I am in Madaba now - the town I have been working in for the past 10 years and its a bit like "coming home". People on the street see me and recognize me and say hi...its great. I am off in a few minutes to go for a swim in the hotel pool and then to do some shopping. We will be returning to Azraq at 4pm this afternoon and then its back to work tomorrow morning at 4am. The next week of excavations should be interesting - as we dig deeper...more interesting artifacts and deposits are sure to appear. Stay tuned.
Wednesday, June 4, 2008
Stone and Bone
Excavation is proceeding slowly as we all get used to the site and the nature of deposits. One thing I can say about this Epipaleolithic site is the fact that I have never seen so many lithics in one place...the ground is riddled with them and I am hoping to get a picture to you soon. We have finally finished cleaning operations in our various fields of excavation and have begun to excavate down. Today we found a bit of "mother of pearl" which had been carved to have "teeth" along one side. Basically, someone about 15,000 years ago was at the Mediterranean Sea - brought this bit of shell home to Kharaneh (or traded for it) and fashioned it into a piece of jewellery. When you think of it that way - its pretty amazing. As for the other artifacts coming out of the ground - the title of this post says it all - stone and bone.
I had to come into Amman today to pick up some other crew members - its about 1.5 hours from Azraq and along the way I picked up a couple of army hitchikers. Its the thing you do here - those who don't own cars, bum rides from everyone else. It was nice to have someone along for the ride, we were able to communicate in my broken Arabic and his broken English. Like all Jordanians, once he found out I was from Canada he immediately responds with "I want to come to Canada"....well, why wouldn't he....Canada is a great place. I warned him about the cold.....but that had little effect, so who knows?
I have to go - heading back to Azraq via the Jordan Plastic Factory to pick up some red crates for storage.....allways an adventure!
Friday, May 30, 2008
Flat Tires and the Desert
I am writing this post from the comfort of the CBRL (British Research Institute) in Amman. We are here today (Friday) to do some supplies shopping and bring some project members to the airport. Presently the noon call to prayer is happening - there is a mosque right beside the CBRL and it is very loud.
The first week of excavations have gone well. I have finally finished setting up the excavation grid and establishing benchmarks and reference points. It has been very hot (this morning it was 37 degrees!!! and no wind)...but I have been adapting well.
Our living accomodations are great - we have rented a new house that was just built in Azraq (pictures to come later) and I even have my own room. We also have a cook that is doing all the cooking so its pretty comfortable. The only thing we are missing are some proper couches and chairs...so we are going "Jordan Style" and have put mattresses around a room and we recline on those. Its pretty comfortable...but sometimes getting up is a bit tough after a hard days work.
So - about the flat tires. Over the past week I have had to change 3 flat tires on various vehicles we are using. The most difficult one was when we tried to go out into the middle of the desert (ok, maybe not the middle...but you get the idea) to find a remote archaeological site. Needless to say - we never got to it, we turned around since we had used up our last spare tire. So far no keys have been lost (some of you will get that joke).
Since we have just started excavating, I don't have anything new to report on that front. We begin in ernest on Saturday - so I should have something to say in a few days. First observations of the site is that its pretty amazing the amount of lithics that are scattered all over the place....I mean literally hundreds of thousands of them.
Upon arrival in Amman last Saturday night I preceded to Madaba to pick up some of my equipment that was in storage. I was able to track down my old friend Mashur and he was totally suprised to see me in Jordan...he had no idea that I was coming and was very happy to see me.
Everyone on the project is very nice and we are all getting along quite well. Last night we had a bit of a "party" and sat around exchanging stories. Good fun. I am very tired - getting up at 4am every day and then driving 45 minutes to site is exhausting. I am also disappointed that I have been unable to get any aerial photographs as the wind has not been strong enough - which is a complete suprise. Mother Nature is having a good laugh at my expense.
Have to go shopping in Amman now (allways an adventure) - I'll update with some photos in the near future.
Thursday, May 22, 2008
Next Stop - Amman, Jordan
Well everyone - its just about that time. As my daughter puts it - "only one more sleep to go"! It has been frantic couple of weeks in getting ready to hit the field - but I think I have remembered everything. Today I did some last minute shopping - in particular, shopping for those items I just can't do without in the field - they are (in no particular order):
- A small bottle of Clamato Juice (for those of you non-Canadian readers out there, this is a drink that consists of tomato and clam juice mixed together). This stuff is used for making "Caesars". Its a drink that you can add either the traditional Vodka - or Gin (for you Brits out there), then you can customize it with Tabasco and other "fixin's".
- Jamaican Jerk Spice. Jordanian fare tends to be rather bland and not very exciting in terms of spice, so I have found that from time to time, preparing a special dish of spicy Caribbean food can have a very postive impact on team morale.
- Instant Oatmeal. Many of you may be surprised that this item is on the list - BUT - at 4:15 in the morning the last thing you want to be doing is cooking up a breakfast - you are on autopilot, so I find that a quick bowl of instant oatmeal is just enough food to get me through to what we call "2nd Breakfast" at 9am on site. 2nd Breakfast can be many different things depending on the project...only time will tell what we'll be eating out in the desert - but I'll be sure to keep you informed.
- Sunblock. Ok, probably an obvious item - but you can't take just ANY sunblock, it has to be a "non-greasy" type....and waterproof. I have found that the cheaper brands of sunblock aren't very good, so I go with Coppertone SPF 50......basically, no tan..but this isn't a vacation folks!
Last but not least is the Marshalltown Trowel 45-5. This is the basic tool of the archaeologist. There are many rules in archaeology and one of them is "Thou Shalt Not Use Any Other Trowel Than A Marshalltown". Archaeologists from the UK disagree with this vehemently (Marshalltown Trowels are made in the USA) and it provides endless debate while on the field. My trowel has been with me ever since my first field school in 1988 back on the Greek island of Lesbos (that's right, I was a Lesbian for a couple of months back in college!!!) - ever since, I have taken it on every project I have ever worked on - I have misplaced it sometimes and even had people hide it from me (a very nerve wracking event) - but it allways turns up. Never mess with an archaeologist's trowel - you are just asking for trouble.
I know this has been a rather trivial post and I haven't really said anything useful - but to be quite honest, I am exhausted and just want to get on the plane at this point. So I must say goodbye for now and I will next post from the beautiful Jordanian oasis town of Azraq early next week.
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
Indiana Jones Almost Here
Friday, May 16, 2008
A Long Time Ago
Scan11237
Originally uploaded by AndrewJGraham
I came across this image and I thought it was interesting enough that I would share it with everyone. What is so neat about this image is that it is a scan of my "One Day Travelcard" of my first visit to London, way back on May 25th, 1988, which of course is EXACTLY 20 years ago. Some of you may know that I have the habit of collecting the oddest of things - old ticket stubs being one of them. The only reason this image is scanned is because I have been on a digital archiving kick at home - and this happened to be something that I kept from that first European adventure so long ago. Its hard to believe that it was 20 years ago....sometimes it seems like just yesterday, and other times it feels like a lifetime ago.
Just for kicks I looked up online what a "One Day Travelcard" costs today - and its a whopping 6.7 British Pounds Sterling. So, simple math means that the cost has gone up 4.7 Pounds in 20 years. BUT, we should figure out what that is in Canadian $ taking into account the historical exchange rates. God bless the internet, its easy to do. The exchange rate for May 25th, 1988 was 2.3179 CDN$ to 1 Pound - so, the Travelcard cost me exactly $4.62 CDN back in the day. If I buy one today - the current exchange rate is 1.9503, so that means it will cost me $13.06 CDN. Bottom line = I will not be buying a "One Day Travelcard" but instead will buy a nice expensive airport beer!!!! Of course, as my friend Luke has pointed out - I am not taking into account the inflation rate. If I did, it would look a whole lot better - but, then - who cares about inflation anyways!
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
Jordan Desert Castles - Qasr al-Mushatta
While not exactly on the Desert Castle "loop" (the site is located approximately 30km south of Amman - just beside the Airport), Qasr al-Mushatta is was perhaps one of the most beautiful in terms of architectural style and decoration. This was one of the largest Umayyad palaces constructed in Jordan and as you can see from the plan - rather symmetrical. Construction on the palace began around 743 CE by Walid II. Even though the palace was never completed, it was impressive nevertheless. There are a total of 25 semi-circular towers built into the Palace enclosure. Much of the surrounding facade was built of fired bricks that have a definate "orange" colour to them - making the whole structure stand out against the desert landscape.
Looking at these pictures you can get a sense of what travellers (people like Gertrude Bell) saw at the site back in the 18th 19th C. when visiting the site. Unfortunately if you visit the site today you won't see the beautiful carvings as most of the more ornate and preserved ones were sent to Berlin at the turn of the century - a gift from the Ottoman Sultan Abdul Hamid to Kaiser Wilhelm. While I have actually never been to Mushatta, I have had the opportunity to see the carvings in the Pergamon Museum in Berlin. The Germans should be commended in how they have presented these remains in a Museum setting - you can certainly appreceiate their beauty, however - your sense of scale is distorted since they have been taken out of their original context. I don't want to engage in the debate regarding the exporting of antiquities and their return to countries of origin - many of you have varied opinions on this subject and its a rather sensitive one. The Mushatta carvings are but one example of this phenomenon - others (like the Eligin Marbles) are equally complex and sensitive situations. Nuff said!
Since this is a site I have never been to I hope I get a chance to see it in a few weeks.
Tuesday, May 13, 2008
Bored? Try This Game
National Geographic has lots of different widgets on their site for inclusion into websites and blogs. I think I will add a few more as I go along. I think you need Flash installed on your computer in order to see these widgets....so if you can't see anything below it means that you don't have Flash installed...you can get it from Macromedia here.
Monday, May 12, 2008
Intermisso - Essential Reading
"International bestseller Navarro (The Brotherhood of the Holy Shroud) wades back into the religious artifact suspense pond, but this time she's pretty much dead in the water with too many unpleasant characters, repetitive exposition, a plodding plot and flat unimaginative prose (perhaps the fault of the translator?). In Iraq, shortly before the current war, Iraqi archeologist Clara Tannenberg announces an incredible find: two cuneiform clay tablets that refer to another set of tablets that record the biblical patriarch Abraham's story of the creation of the earth. The twist is that this clay bible with Abraham's narrative was written a thousand years before the papyrus version we know today. This discovery, one character asserts, will "change history, with repercussions in religion and even politics." How this will happen and what the repercussions will be are never really explained, as a group of off-the-shelf evil Nazis vie with C lara's thuggish grandfather and a few other interested parties to find, seize, steal or sell the clay tablets."
I don't know what else to add - other than I am looking forward to reading this book - I mean its got all the cliches associated with archaeology - the bible, tablets and even the vile Nazi's (for another example of Nazi's and archaeology see Indiana Jones - Raiders of the Lost Ark) - how could it be bad? If only our own work at Kharaneh would have similar "repercussions" (sigh). I have also been busy copying DVD's onto my PSP for viewing pleasure (especially on the long plane rides to and from Jordan). I have been fortunate to be able to get my hand on the first 7 episodes of "The Tudors" and look forward to watching Henry.....well.......be Henry! Its apparently good to be the king!
Ok - enough levity. I will return with a new post in due course on another "desert castle" of Jordan - but which one exactly I will leave as a suprise. 11 days until I depart - but who's counting.
Thursday, May 8, 2008
Jordan Desert Castles - Qasr al-Hallabat
Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Jordan Desert Castles - Qasr al-Azraq
The present state of the castle was a result of the rebuilding efforts of the Ayyubids around 1230 AD. Perhaps the most famous person to inhabit the walls of Qasr al-Azraq was none other than T.E. Lawrence himself. Many of you may know him as "Lawrence of Arabia" - a very controversial figure in the history and politics of the Middle East in the early 20th C. He used this castle as a base of operations during the so-called Arab Revolt of 1917. I have visited this site before (back in 2000 with my wife, Tara) and had my picture taken in "Lawrences' Room" - his office if you will. I can just imagine the things that went on there...incredible.
Monday, April 28, 2008
Jordan Desert Castles - Qasr Amra
Qasr Amra was added to UNESCO's World Heritage list in 1985 which has proven vital to the conservation and preservation efforts of this beautiful building complex. I am sure I will get a chance to revisit this site at some point this summer.
Friday, April 25, 2008
Jordan Desert Castles - Qasr Kharaneh
I thought I would start with Qasr Kharaneh as it is located directly to the north of where we will be working. You'll undoubtedly see more of this stucture as the summer progresses as we'll be going by this site on a daily basis.
Qasr Kharaneh, or Kharaneh Castle is an Umayyad period building constructed around the 6th C. AD. There are many opinions on the function and use of this building and I am not going to bore you with the details - other than to say - while the building certainly looks like a castle - there are those who say it was just a glorified caravanserai (I can't say that word!) or that it was just a meeting place for Umayyad chief "mucky-mucks" to chat about business - an Umayyad "Camp David" if you will. Either way - its a cool structure, well preserved. Going inside the Qasr is like stepping back in time and you can just imagine all the goings on in the central courtyard. I hope to get a chance to spend some time inside the castle so I can take a bunch of pictures - who knows...maybe I'll even get to do some KAP of the building!
Kids Playing Cricket
Monday, April 21, 2008
Lets Go Fly a Kite
Friday April 19th was the first test of my KAP system, consisting of a Floform 8 kite, the KAP rig and a Nikon Coolpix L14 camera (less than $100 in case it came crashing to the earth). I live across the street from a huge park and so I have easy access to a flying zone on any given day, provided that the wind is sufficient. I don't have a wind meter - so I had to rely on my judgement - which as it turns out was bang on! If I had to guess, the wind was blowing at about 15 - 20 km/h.
Launching the kite and rig is basically a 2 person job. My wife and daughter joined me on the excursion to assist. Basically what you need to do is launch the kite as you normally would. Once the kite is up in the air about 75 feet, then you attach the rig to the kite line. My rig is usually referred to as a pendulum rig - it is configured in such a way as to allow the camera mount part to swing below the kite line, regardless of line angle (gravity....not just a good idea, its the law!). The rig allows you to position the angle the camera is shooting in any direction. For archaeological applications this can either be directly above the item of interest, or on an oblique.
Once the rig is on the line you allow the kite to slowly lift it to the desired altitude. This is the tricky part as wind gusts can be your enemy. My daughter was excellent in making sure the camera didn't come crashing down to earth, but rather into her expert hands! I set the camera to shoot video instead of taking pictures. While its fairly low resolution, it allowed me to focus on technique instead of content. Future test flights will experiment with picture taking. At any rate, you get the idea of what is possible just from the couple of pictures I have posted here. The first one is an "oblique" of the soccer field across from my house. The 2nd is an overhead shot with my daughter and I in frame for scale. So, all in all I am quite happy with my first experiment. I am hoping to use this setup in Jordan this summer to capture overhead images of not just our site (Kharaneh IV), but also Mudayna, Madaba and anywhere else they will let me "fly a kite".
Wednesday, April 9, 2008
The Archaeology Channel
Anyways, I came across one that I thought would be perfect for my blog - its called "Jordan: A Historical Review" and is 15 minutes long. If you get some spare time and you want to see a bit more of what Jordan is like then I suggest you click this link and see for yourself.
http://www.archaeologychannel.org/content/video/jordan.html
It may be 15 minutes you never get back....but you'll be the better for it!
Tuesday, April 8, 2008
The Middle of Nowhere Revealed
Click on the map image to see a larger version. As you can tell - the middle of nowhere actually IS a real place!